Springing into action

9:41am Wednesday 6th February 2008

THERE are so many tempting seeds and plants to choose from catalogues at this time of year, but how do you know they are going to grow into what it says on the packet?

Well some research could help you decide what packet to plump for.

Researchers tested plants' germination, flowering, foliage and resistance to pests and diseases last summer.

The best included the California poppy Fruit crush', which produced masses of yellow, orange, pink and red flowers from the end of July to the end of August.

They do not like the wet, though, so would have probably performed better in a dry summer.

For a stunning autumn show, they recommend the ornamental grass Pennisetum 'Cream Falls', planted in swathes through the border and producing long, fluffy, white flowers from July to the end of September.

Long-flowering gems include Viola Pumpkin Pie' sown at the beginning of May and producing masses of orange, yellow and black flowers throughout the summer.

They are trouble-free and look great at the front of the border or in pots.

If you have a hot, dry spot in the garden where you want to make some impact, go for Nasturtium 'Paintbox', which produces an impressive show of red, yellow and orange flowers from July to September.

They are good ground cover plants and do well in poor soil.

The enormous flowers of Sunflower Green Heart', which span 40cm, should be enough to dazzle most visitors to your garden.

The plant grows up to 160cm, so is great for the back of the border, flowering from late July to mid-August. You will attract the birds if you leave the seedheads on at the end of summer.

Out of all the plants grown, the favourite was Aster Bridesmaids', which grows to 80cm and produces a mix of pastel shades in pink, apricot and yellow.

The flowers help soften the look of the border and go well with ornamental grasses.

Seeds were sown in May and germinated quickly, although asters are late-flowering, blooming in August and September.

Best of the bunch - Witch hazel

This citrus-scented shrub brings a burst of colour to the garden, its spidery flowers in shades of yellow, red and coppery orange carried on bare, leafless branches. Good varieties include Hamamelis x intermedia Diane', whose flowers have thread-like, dark red petals.

The bright green leaves turn red and yellow in autumn and it can be grown either at the back of a shrub border or as a stand-alone specimen, which grows to around 4m (12ft).

Other impressive types include H. x intermedia Pallida', which produces sulphur-yellow flowers and H. x intermedia Jelena', which has orange flowers.

Witch hazel grows best in full sun or partial shade in moderately fertile, neutral to acid, moist but well drained soil rich in organic matter.

Good enough to eat - Forcing rhubarb

It is such an easy fruit to grow and adds tang and acidity to crumbles and pies.

If you want some early on in the year you will need to dig up a rhubarb root that has been growing in the garden for several years or more, leave it out in the open for a couple of weeks, then plant it in a pot just large enough to accommodate it.

Tuck potting compost or garden soil around the roots and place the pot in a warm, dark place like an airing cupboard, watering it just enough so it does not dry out, but not soaking it.

Tender young sticks of forced rhubarb should emerge which will be ready in about six weeks.

Once you have harvested the rhubarb, the plant can be put back into the garden to recover, although you will not be able to force it again for a good few years.