IT has been closed for some time, but the basement kitchen beneath the Pyramid came back to life with a bang on Friday as home to the town’s first supper club.

When Olive Press opened in the space almost a decade ago it was perhaps ahead of its time.

This was pre-Cultural Quarter and an era when heading to the town centre for a night out was only for those intent on drinking their body weight.

Roll forward to today and the atmosphere is altogether different, something the owners of My Little Kitchen look set to benefit from.

The concept is simple.

A three-course menu which changes each month based on fresh, local ingredients cooked to fine dining standards. And you get a glass of wine and coffee thrown in for your £30 bill.

So if you are after your favourite pasta dish or roast beef time after time, this place may not be for you.

But if you want to be surprised and excited by food, and by an ever-changing choice and variety, then book in now.

We sat down to be met by a full dining room, an impressive start for chefs James Thatcher and Kyle Tyrrell who run the night. An acoustic singer added to the atmosphere.

I would have happily eaten anything from the menu so great was the choice but tucked into the confit pork belly starter – the highlight of which was a crispy piece of crackling that was moorishly salty.

My girlfriend enjoyed her goats cheese with tasty pear and walnut textures.

The star of the show though was my rib eye steak. I always think you can judge the quality of a restaurant by an ability to cook a steak to the diner’s choosing.

I asked for it rare and that is what I got, juicy and pink with some tasty spinach and rich dauphinoise on the side.

The roast duck breast was also nice and pink with a great red wine sauce, but some more carrots would not have gone amiss.

I went for the ‘mysterious’ strawberries and cream for dessert – boldly described as the supper club’s ‘signature dish’. Four mini-desserts of creme brulee, cheesecake, ice cream and tart, all with a strawberry and cream twist, arrived. It was a delight.

Making this space work has always been a challenge for restaurants.

My Little Kitchen may have worked out the perfect recipe.

  •  The next Supper Club is August 14. Tickets from pyramidparrhall.com.