IT’S not food you’d necessarily expect from a chain restaurant in the heart of a shopping district.

But Brown’s, at Liverpool One, offers refined respite from retail therapy. If some mains on the a la carte sound like pub favourites – fish pie, belly pork, fish and chips – the execution and flavour elevates them to something more, signified in sides like arriabiata rosti potato, or balsamic caramelised apple, although prices are higher as a result.

If dining on a Sunday, like my visit, you get an added selection of traditional roasts that share the same tendency towards small details that make the difference.

I started with browned, pan seared scallops with a mild curry dusting, creamy cauliflower purée, tempura florets and a zingy grape, garlic and shallot vinaigrette (£9.50).

Sadly, one of the scallops was raw, but otherwise the starter was solid.

A generous five bone rack of lamb was up next, the dark, tender meat, cooked a perfect medium rare, although not cheap at £20. If the large Yorkshire pudding and potatos were reassuringly crunchy, the vegetables lacked bite. The large portion was washed down with a large glass of Shiraz (The Opportunist, Barossa Valley, Australia, £5.80), before dessert, a comforting, rich sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream (£4).

With excellent service, Brown’s is the perfect spot for a lunchtime treat, if you’re willing to pay that little bit more.